This season I have heard of people making the same mistakes over and over when picking their deer hunting spot. Now that the rut is here, it is time to correct that error and pick much better and more productive hunting spots, be them on the ground or in a tree stand. On this episode I go in depth to explain this big mistake and the many ways you can improve your hunt by correcting it. 

Where you setup make a big difference when it comes to taking game. It is the single most strategic decision you can make. Picking a spot where you can see deer is not the same as picking a spot where you can take deer. You have got to focus 100% on the latter. Seeing deer does nothing to put venison in the freezer. 

Always focus on selecting stand and blind locations where you can take deer home. And as more hunters begin to fill the woods you need to also take into account how their activities impact deer movement and help or hurt you. Always work to leverage their activity to your advantage as well.

Listen to the podcast episode to hear the one huge tip!

The only good thing about a terrible hunt is when you can learn from it and help other people avoid what happened to you. On this episode I talk about the worst duck hunt of my life and how I wish I had known the answer to a very important question before I went into the woods: how do you humanely and quickly dispatch a live duck that makes it into your hands? 

No matter how much you practice, how tight your choke tube, or how good your ammunition, there will be times when you wound or cripple a duck that needs finished off. The hunter’s goal should be to kill the duck as quickly and humanely as possible to minimize suffering and ensure the duck does not get away for prolonged suffering. 

Not knowing how to do this led me through a traumatic series of events that became the worst duck hunt of my life. Had I heard this simple podcast episode first, it would have saved me so much trouble and saved a duck much more suffering as well. 

Here is the most concise document I’ve found with methods to kill a downed duck. The cervical dislocation is the main one I mentioned in the episode. Fact-Sheet-Dispatch-of-Duck-CD-Method-2019.pdf (gma.vic.gov.au)

How to prepare for a black bear hunt hinges upon how the battlefield is chosen. If you are hunting locally and you can pick the area, conditions, and weather then selecting gear is very easy. But if you are traveling to an unfamiliar battle ground, there are many unknowns and things you need to take into account. In this episode I talk about making bear hunting preparations for those newer to the sport.

Show Notes:

Most people do not start hunting bear as the first game they ever pursue, they have at least some experience hunting something else first, maybe deer, turkey, waterfowl or small game. Those skills can form the foundation of hunting knowledge you need to get started as you seek to add bear specific knowledge to your toolbox. I have done many other episodes focused on helping you build that knowledge base check those out.

The gear you need to hunt bear is almost entirely dependent on the location, weather, and strategy you use. Your deer hunting gear could be perfect. Or you may want gear more focused towards elk hunting. Alot of different types of gear can work if you know how to be resourceful and creative with your setup. Cheap gear can do a lot more than many people give it credit; however, you need to use that cheap gear differently.

For example, if you have cheap boots and cheap socks, you can get by better if you bring several changes of socks and two pair of boots. This will help keep your feet fresh, warm, and blister free. If you have cheap base layers, you can stretch their capabilities by bringing a second pair with you to rotate at mid-day to keep you dry, warm, and reduce chaffing.  

When it comes to firearms, a lot of rifles will work just fine. You want something that you can accurate shoot out to 150-200 yards and has enough power at that range to bring down a black bear quickly. For example, a 30-30 is just a bit light at range, but still just fine close up. A .308 is perfect, a 30-06 is just as a perfect, as is a .270, 7mm magnum, and many other chamberings. 

Listen to the episode to hear all the details.

Disclaimer: High N’ Dry gave me the breathable waders to review, thanks to them for their support. I bought the neoprene waders with my own money using a discount they provided.

I found High ‘N Dry waders after an extensive and exhausting search for a new pair of quality chest waders for waterfowl hunting. I bought my first pair 3 duck seasons ago and they instantly became my favorite company in the waders industry. Now I have both their breathable and neoprene waders as well as their B2 base layers and this review will include insights into all of them, as well as tackling the question; are breathable or neoprene waders better?

The Research Phase

I spent months looking at waders when I was ready for new ones. I looked at so many brands and designs and features that my head was spinning. There was only one constant, I could not find a single thing that was up to my quality standards. I sifted through hundreds of waders and the best of them had only mediocre reviews. I looked at cheap waders, mid-grade, expensive and premium waders, and nothing seem to last long. A service life of 1-2 seasons was the average, almost nothing made it through 3 seasons and I wanted better. To hear more about the challenges and difficulties of finding good waders check out my podcast episode All About Duck Hunting Waders.

I gave up looking for duck hunting waders and began looking for commercial and industrial grade waders. I decided if the hunting industry did not produce waders that were durable enough then I would look into other industries. That is what lead me to discover High ‘N Dry.  The founders of the company had roots as commercial watermen, farming oysters and clams. They were working in their waders all day, hundreds of days a year. They also couldn’t find commercial grade waders that were durable enough for the job so they decide to make their own. Being avid waterfowl hunters, they decided to also make the waders in various camouflage patterns and brought them to market.

I reached out to High ‘N Dry and asked them a series of questions about their products and they were the first company that had impressed me. I had developed a gold standard I wanted in waders so I asked them my big question: Will your waders last me 50 hunts over 5 years with responsible use and care? They did not hesitate to say that was a very reasonable expectation on my part. So I gave them my money. It’s been 3 seasons since that day, and that first pair of waders is not showing any signs of wearing out yet. 

What Is Unique About High ‘N Dry?

I can sum that up in two words, durability, and boots.  High ‘N Dry’s waders just keep working. They don’t wear out, they don’t wear through, they don’t come apart at the seams, they don’t dry rot, they don’t leak, they just keep working. My experience with the neoprene and the breathables is the same thus far.  They are rugged well-constructed waders. The breathable waders have 4 layers of materials with multi-layer seam sealing technology. The Neoprene waders have a single seam construction with 6-layer seam sealing technology.  However, nothing is indestructible, you can destroy them, more on that later. But they don’t seem to fail under any circumstances on their own, even after years.

The boots are also unique. They have 55% rubber reinforced boots with 800g or 1500g equivalent of synthetic insultation. Simply put, the boots are real boots. They are like putting on my Muck boots. They are not half shell boots, moon boosts, stocking foot boots, or any other cheap wader boot that only has insulation around you toes. The whole boot is insulated, the whole boot is warm, and it is strong, comfortable, has arch support and you can walk for miles in them. I don’t recommend walking miles in any waders, but I’ve had to do it and the boots are up to the task. They also have great grip and strong soles. Just 3 days before writing this review I did a morning hunt when it was 38 degrees Fahrenheit and we were sitting in 10″ deep water for hours. I had on only the 800g boots and my feet never got cold.

High ‘N Dry Neoprene Wader Review

I bought the High ‘N Dry Neoprene Waders first, in bottomland camo with 1600g boots. I wanted the warmest and more durable waders possible for the late season. And wow did they deliver with 5mm neoprene construction with Kevlar reinforced knees. Now any 5mm neoprene is going to keep you warm, it is a super insulator. Coupled with the aforementioned boots and they are outstanding. The coldest I’ve hunted in them was 7 degrees Fahrenheit. And let me tell you. That is brutal cold. But the waders were more than up for the task and we took home ducks that day. I have broken brush with them, I have stomped holes in inch thick ice. And I have braved mud so thick and sticky that you felt like it would tear your foot right off. Never had an issue. Check my High ‘N Dry Neoprene Waders Video Review as well.

High ‘N Dry Neoprene Chest Wader Features:

  • Neoprene reinforced knees with exterior Kevlar® protection
  • 5mm neoprene body with limited, single-seam construction
  • Six-layer seam sealing technology
  • Available in Mossy Oak® Shadow Grass Blades, Mossy Oak® Bottomland, and Brown
  • Thinsulate™Ultra + Neoprene + Synthetic Wool insulation = 1500g eq.
  • 55% natural rubber reinforced boots
  • Gusseted crotch for mobility and comfort
  • Exterior rainproof pocket
  • Men’s sizes 7-15 in Regular, Stout, and Tall

Additionally, I can say the suspender straps are comfortable and durable and the clips are very nice. For cold weather applications these waders are the best of the best. I cannot recommend them highly enough. It is true they are not super cheap, but their only competitors cost 2-3 times as much and give no additional performance benefits. The only downside is the nature of neoprene waders, they are heavy and bulky. It is just a bulky material. You need that when it’s cold but in the early season it can be a bit much. Which lead me to try their breathable waders.

High ‘N Dry Neoprene Wader Review

As much as I like the neoprene waders, I wanted something more manageable for the early season, so I set my sights on the arguably even more innovative High N’ Dry Breathable Waders. And wow, they were everything I dreamed they would be, light, flexible, strong, and more comfortable when it was 60 degrees+ outside. I was thoroughly impressed by the construction, every seam and weak point is reinforced. The area’s most likely to fail have extra layers, extra protection, Kevlar armor, and more. They are made to last. My favorite feature is that I can pack them into a backpack with the boots sticking out the top and walk miles into the woods to jump hunt and then pull my waders out and put them on if I hit a duck. That is pretty much impossible with neoprene.

High ‘N Dry Breathable Chest Wader Features:

  • Neoprene reinforced knees with exterior Kevlar® protection
  • Four-layer breathable fabric
  • Sonic Welded; Multi-layer seam sealing technology
  • Available in Mossy Oak® Shadow Grass Blades, Mossy Oak® Bottomland, and Brown
  • Thinsulate™ + Neoprene + Synthetic Wool insulation in two boot options = 800g & 1500g eq.
  • 55% natural rubber reinforced boots
  • Exterior rainproof pocket, interior zippered pocket, reach through chest pocket
  • Men’s sizes 7-15 in Regular, Stout, Tall and B.I.G.
  • Uninsulated Upper to allow optimum comfort thru layering

The breathable waders are also easier to dry and move around in. I can put them so quickly in the field as well, which I have to do regularly when jump hunting creeks, so the downed ducks are not swept downstream. The engineering on these is very impressive. Neoprene also tends to be a little more durable than breathable waders and can stand up to a little bit more abuse. Here is my neoprene chest waders review video.

Wader Repair

No waders last forever. High ‘N Dry will be the first ones to tell you that. But they should last for years and they should not fail before their time. That said, if you walk into sharp things at high speed, have knife accidents, fall onto jagged rocks, or any other of the many high impact things waterfowlers do, you can cut, puncture or tear your waders. And that is no problem. High ‘N Dry has a proprietary relationship with 3M and sells 4000 UV Marine Grade Sealant in black. Put this on this on both sides of the puncture and you are good to go within 24 hours. It is flexible, leak proof, strong, and long lasting. I did once charge into a jagged spear of a stick that we used to make a blind near dawn suffering from sleep deprivation and poked a hole in the outer layer of my neoprene. The 3m stuff left it stronger than it was before.

Bells & Whistles

If High ‘N Dry is criticized for anything it is their lack of bells and whistles. Both neoprene and breathable waders have a pocket or two with a couple of clips that you could attack things like hand warming muff to. That is it. No removable insulating layers, no dozens of pockets inside or outside, no built-in safety whistle, no shotgun shell loops, no duck call holders, no carabiners, no tool holders, nothing. And I am so thankful for that. The wader industry has been trying so hard for years to take cheap waders with moon boots that only last a season and a half and dress them up with all kinds of fancy features you do not really need instead of just making good waders. And here is the thing, the more gizmos you add, the more potential failure points in the construction there are.

For me, waders are tool, like hammer or wrench. You want them to do their one job well, every time, forever. My hammer doesn’t need a cup holder or a rear-view mirror. I do not want any of that stuff that makes the waders heavier and cost more, I just want quality durable waders that keep me dry and last a long time. That is it. I do not want removable insulation on waders that don’t make it through two seasons. I can wear more layers if it’s cold. I can get neoprene waders if it’s really cold. I want every dollar of the purchase price to go into quality material and construction, and that is what High ‘N Dry does. It is like they read my mind.

High ‘N Dry B2 Base Layers Review

This season I got a Set of the B2 Base Layers as well. You can also buy just the quarter zip hoody or bottoms. These layers are so nice, especially for the early season. They are designed and cut to be worn under waders, so they don’t bunch up where you don’t want them to and they have heel stirrups and thumb loops so you can get them into your wader boots without them riding up and slide your arms through outer layers. They also wick away moister and dry quickly, especially when paired with the breathable waders. They are nice and warm as well. With the hoody, my favorite part is the built in facemask that you can seemingly pull out of nowhere to cover you face with a great camo breathable layer. My biggest complaint is that they do not come in full camo, I found that I would have worn them alone on some of warmer days during this year’s early season.

Quarter Zip Features:

  • DWR Treated fabric: Durable Water Resistant to shed light rain and mist
  • Moisture wicking
  • Internal face mask/neck gator
  • Thumb loops
  • Magnetic chest pocket
  • Hood
  • Athletic fit
  • YKK Zippers

Bottoms Features:

  • DWR Treated fabric: Durable Water Resistant to shed light rain and mist
  • Moisture wicking
  • Heel stirrups
  • Draw string closure
  • Athletic fit
  • Side pockets

These are marketed as mid layers/base layers. I find the pants have enough room that I can wear a nice base layer under them when its that cold, the quarter zip doesn’t have enough room for that. So order a size larger than you normally wear if that is your plan. Else it fits well as a next to skin layer and both are very comfortable for that job with lofty polar fleece and spandex added to the material. They are high quality smart layers with lots of little features that are very nice.

What Is Better, Neoprene or Breathable Waders?

This is a very easy question for me to answer now that I have the highest quality and most durable neoprene and breathable waders on the market to compare them. It depends on when, where, and how you hunt.

  1. For the early season or any mild climate, the breathable waders are the best tool.
  2. For cold weather, breaking ice, and late season hunts, the neoprene waders are the best tool.
  3. If you want to put the waders in an easy to carry backpack and go jump hunting, then you want breathable waders.
  4. If you are hunting thick, dense stuff that puts a lot of wear on your gear, you want neoprene because it’s a little thicker and more durable. 
  5. If you get cold easy, get neoprene.
  6. If you are prone to running hot all the time, get breathables.
  7. If you are prone to running out of energy quickly, get the lighter breathables.
  8. If you walk far in your waders, on land or in the stream, get the breathables.
  9. If you spend alot of time standing or sitting in cold water, get the neoprene.

The best answer is you should get both, so you have the best the tool for every hunt. But most people, like myself, are only buying one at a time so you need to pick which one is best for you to start with. For me, and how I hunt, and what is most important to my area and needs, I think the breathable waders are the better tool for more days of the season. But you have to decide which is best for you. The neoprene is a little less expensive, that’s a noteworthy factor as well.  And if you are looking for a good inexpensive waterproof jacket to wear with these in the rain, check out my review of the TideWe Rain Suit, it was completely waterproof at a very low price point.

The Final Analysis

I think High ‘N Dry makes the best waders on the market right now. And no, they are not paying me to say that.  They may cost a little more than some other brands, but I believe they will last ALOT longer. Your cost per season should be much lower with High ‘N Dry because you can go more seasons without having to replace your waders. And they are more comfortable, more usable, and enjoyable for all of those seasons than most of their competitors. 

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast and check us out on YouTube

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in th

As a note, High N’ Dry gave me the breathable waders to review, thanks to them for their support. I bought the neoprene waders with my own money.

Fall turkey hunting is a very different pursuit than spring turkey hunting, it has its own distinct flavor and unique strategies. On this episode I talk about five strategies for hunting fall turkey, the best times of day, and how to chain turkey hunts together with other game pursuits.

5 was you can hunt turkeys in the fall:

  1. Big Rifle Hunting – This involves using terrain to gain altitude where you can see big distances and trying to take a bird from long range.
  2. Small Rifle Hunting – This is most often done as an ambush technique or when trying to divert nearby birds into your area.
  3. Scatter and Call – This approach is used when you can get close enough to bust up a flock, hide, and try to call them back together. 
  4. Flush and Shoot – Similar to pheasant hunting, you push through areas with cover trying to flush birds and shoot them in the air.
  5. Slowly Stalking – Akin to still hunting deer, this approach focusses on moving stealthily through thick woods, trying to spot and shoot a bird before it sees you.

On of the best things about fall turkey hunting is you can also combine other pursuits, in some places you can hunt turkey and deer at the same time, or turkey and pheasant at the same time, or ducks, small game, and any number of birds. Do not fall into the trap of thinking you need super specialized gear to take all these types of game either. often you can use the same shotgun and the same ammo to hunt several different things, just make sure you are compliant with local laws.

You can shoot turkeys with steel, bismuth, tungsten, lead, or anything else that flies out of a shotgun or rifle if its legal. One of the best things new hunters can do when they are learning to turkey hunt is combine several pursuits to maximize their chances of coming out of the woods with dinner and to have the most fun.

In many areas you can take all different types of turkeys in the fall also, be them big toms, jakes, hens, or poults. Do not be afraid of taking a hen in the fall or a poult. Turkey winter survival rates are not as high as many think. There is a good chance that the turkey you shoot in the fall was not going to survive the winter due to lack of food, predation, or severe weather. Taking a fall bird has the most minimal potential impact on the turkey population. And a small turkey can be a very tasty meal, something you almost never find in a grocery store either.

The best guns for fall turkey hunting tend to be shotguns or small rifles. It may be a 12 gauge, 20 gauge or other shotgun, a shotgun combined with a rifle, or a smaller rifle such as as .22lr, .22 magnum, .17 HMR, a .22 hornet or a lightly loaded 223. Always check your local to laws to know what is legal and what the proper safety regulations are in your area.

Listen to the episode for all the details on strategy, gun choices, and much much more!

October can be one of the best times to be in the woods, but ALOT is happening and changing this month. If you can flow with the changes and use them to your advantage, you can excel. If you keep trying to do the same thing all month, your effectiveness is going to diminish.  On this episode I talk about how to get the most out of hunting deer in October.

In October:

  • The days go from long to short
  • The weather goes from warm to cool
  • The cover goes from dense to thin
  • The deer go from social to ready to fight to the death
  • The places deer spend time go from summer patterns to fall
  • The times of day bucks are most active goes from evening to morning
  • The hunting pressure goes from zero to heavy
  • The focus of deer goes from munching to breeding
  • The strategy of most hunters from bad to worse

If you know how to manage all of these changes and use them to your advance, this can be your most productive month in the woods!

Listen to the episode for all the details.

The early season has several distinct advantages that can help you find quick success in the deer woods. Too many people look to luck when they should be looking to preparation. On this episode I talk about three tips that helped me shoot my buck during this deer hunting season. 

All of these tips can be summarized in one word, preparation. Once you get into your tree stand or hunting blind, the vast majority of factors that can contribute to your success are behind you.  Yes, you still need to do many things well to be quiet, still, smart, judge distance, take good shots, etc. But those things can only happen if deer have a reason to get within range of you.

Preparation is the unfair advantage that often makes the difference between seeing nothing and consistent success.

Listen to this episode for the three tips that helped me land my early season buck this year. Photo below.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR2454.JPG

Everyone would rather hunt deer smarter vs. harder, but the big question is not that, it is to hunt smarter vs. hunting more. And that choice is not as easy of a choice for everyone to make. Some want to be successful as soon as possible, tag out, and be done for the season. Others want to hunt all season long. Either is fine, and both could be done smartly, but often that is not the case.

  • Hunting smarter involves putting yourself in a position to take deer regularly, it involves strategy, scouting, timing, and terrain.
  • Hunting more or longer is often a result of one of 3 things, looking for the biggest deer possible, not hunting smart, or bad luck.
  • Hunting smarter not only results in more chances to take game, but being more ready when the opportunity comes.
  • You can have the best of both, because there is more than deer in the woods to hunt. You can tag out early and then go after other game. 
  • No one should ever feel like being successful early takes you out of the woods, it should just shift what you are hunting for.
  • Listen to the episode to hear it all!

So much goes into a duck call, but what makes it sound good to ducks? On this episode I interview a duck call maker, hunter, musician and fellow podcaster to better understand what goes into a duck call, what really matters in the field, and how you can navigate the marketing clutter to find a duck call that is right for you.

The main goal of a duck call is to sound like a duck. It’s that simple. But most duck calls are judged by how well hunters can play them as musicians. Duck calling competitions are marvels of skill and experience, but they often sound far from what a real duck is like.

Sometimes real ducks make calls that hunters would consider quite lousy but that is because our perception can be skewed. There is another truth though that sometimes ducks do respond well to sounds that real ducks just do not make. Be it instinct or curiosity, you can have some success hunting ducks with calling sounds or sequences that do not exist in nature.

But for the new hunter, duck calling can be a rather simple affair. The goal of this episode is to talk through some of the feature and marketing of duck calls to help you discern what kinds of calls are right for you and what is worth spending your money on.

Riley is not a sponsor and I get no kickbacks, but at my request he agreed to give a 10% discount to all New Hunters Guide listeners. Just go to his website https://rylohgamecalls.com and use the code nhgcast at checkout for the 10% discount.

Every duck hunter needs a choke tube, and it is only a matter of time before you become obsessed with finding the best one. But it doesn’t need to be that complicated or intense. On this episode I talk about the basics of finding the right choke tube and I share some high-level research-based insights.

Almost all shotguns have changeable choke tubes these days. What not many people are willing to admit is that most of them will do the job just fine for hunting ducks at regular distances of 30 yards. But there are some gains to be made with finding higher quality chokes and matching them to the distance you take shots at.

Some chokes are made for certain types of shells, and some are made for specific shells themselves. My research hasn’t proven either way if they really can engineer chokes better for a specific shell, but you can count on choke manufactures having tested those shells heavily so the risk of the choke not performing with them is minimal.

Do aftermarket choke tubes improve performance? According to my firsthand field testing, they absolutely do, with some guns and some stock chokes. Stock recessed or flush chokes can often be replaced with extended aftermarket chokes for improved performance. But many of the high-end shotguns come with stock chokes just as good as aftermarket ones. 

People are obsessed with tighter and tighter patterns these days, and that sounds good, and it’s easy to get caught up in the hype. But we want to eat our ducks, and blasting them to shreds is not better. Ultimately you want a pattern that helps you consistently and reliably get clean kills so the birds do not suffer and are not lost, but not so tight that it destroys all edible portions of the bird. 

Listen to the podcast episode for all the details!