First Lite Furnace 350 Merino Base Layers Review | Henley, Long John, Beanie

Disclaimer: I bought these base layers with my own money though I do receive discounts provided by First Lite for industry professionals, they have also provided me with other gear, and I earn from qualifying purchases using links to their site, thanks to them for their support. 

First Lite’s Furnace EXP 350 merino wool base layers may be the best available next to skin layer for hunting everything from deer to waterfowl on the market when it is super cold. That said, they are not magic. But they do the job about as well it can be done. I bought the Furnace Quarter Zip, Furnace Long Johns, and Furnace Beanie with my own money to hunt with. I proceeded to do more than hunt with them, I also lab tested them at 5 degrees Fahrenheit dry and wet to see if they could live up to the marketing. 

Why Spend The Money?

I had long wanted to get the Furnace 350 base layers for hunting whitetail deer but it was duck hunting that actually gave me the needed push to spend the money and buy them. I would get cold while deer hunting with the cheaper less effective layers I was using, but it rarely seemed like a big enough deal. But with waterfowl hunting we would drag our gear into the woods and build a blind. By the time I sat down I was exhausted and soaking wet. Within a few hours I might get dangerously cold. I not only needed something warmer, I need something that kept me toasty when wet. Enter merino wool.

The Basics of Merino Wool

Merino wool comes from the merino sheep, it is unique because it has finer fibers than most wool. This enables you to have more wool with less volume and less itch. So, the gear is more compact and can be comfortably used next to skin. An ounce of merino wool takes up less space than an ounce of regular wool and keeps you just as warm. Perhaps just as important, those shorter fibers wick moisture away from your body so they evaporate and dry quicker than regular wool. And just like regular wool, merino minimizes odor, retains the majority of its insulating ability when wet, and is very durable. Listen to my podcast episode on Hunting Gear Insulation to go deeper or watch my video: What Is Merino Wool? Is It REALLY Better Than Regular Wool?

Why The Furnace 350?

Lots of companies make great late season heavy base layers, like Sitka Gear, Cabela’s, Ice Breaker, and many more. I investigated and even tested several other options, but I settled on the First Lite Furnace because it was essentially solid merino wool, they have a great reputation, and it was super heavy duty. All the other great base layers have their place, but for me on days so cold that your game is frozen solid by the time you get it home, the Furnace felt like the best match. For base layers that are ideal when the weather isn’t quite so cold, check out my review on the First Lite Kiln 250 Merino Base Layers.

Furnace Features

First and foremost, the Furnace pieces are thick. They use First Lite’s Merino-X 350g EXP weight fabric, which essentially means there is 350 grams of merino wool per square meter of fabric. That equates to the Henley being over one pound in weight and the Long John being just under a pound. That is kind of mind boggling that a base layer shirt could weigh a pound, but that is the best pound you can wear in the cold.

Henley Features

    • True to size: Purchase your normal size to wear over or under other layers
    • 5 micron, superfine, merino wool
    • 95% merino / 5% spandex
    • Expedition weight, fleeced Merino fabric for extreme cold
    • Snap closure, quarter length Henley collar
    • Modified raglan sleeve moves seams out from under backpack shoulder straps
    • Ergonomic cuff with thumb loops
    • Flatlock seams
    • Machine wash, line dry

Long John Features

    • True to size: Purchase your normal size to wear over or under other layers
    • 5 micron, superfine merino wool
    • 95% merino / 5% spandex
    • Expedition weight, fleeced Merino fabric for extreme cold
    • Full length
    • Jacquard waistband
    • Fully functional fly
    • Flatlock seams

Henley Overview

The First Lite Furnace Henley is very nicely put together. It does not look or feel like long underwear, in fact I have worn it to the office as a long sleeve shirt on really cold days (I got the gray one pictured at the top of this post). It looks really nice and can pass as a quality three button winter shirt. I was not too hot either, which is another one of the strengths of Merino wool, it helps regulate temperature. Think about how God made these sheep, the same wool needs to keep them warm on super cold days but not overheat them on warm days. It works just like that for us. Full discloser, my Henley came with a broken snap. I contacted First Lite and they gave me a return label and I had the old one sent back with a new one in hand very quickly, no out of pocket cost. The Furnace is also available in a quarter zip.

Long Johns Overview

I am very picky about Long Johns because I want a lot of warmth, but I do NOT want them to inhibit my movement at all, especially around the knees. I was impressed at how good the Furnace Long John did in this area, they are very thick and fit snug, but they create very minimal tension around my knees, and I have very good range of movement. The pro here is that I can get away with fewer layers on active hunts so in the end I have less bulk because I am wearing these. Merino also shines extra bright when used to make pants because often your seat gets wet when you sit down, and these keep you warmer and dry faster.

Beanie Overview

Unfortunately, I am not able to sing the praises of the beanie the same way I can the other pieces. The marketing for the Furnace Beanie lead me to believe that this was First Lite’s heavy duty cold weather head gear option. And it is not that, not even close. The beanie functionally serves as a 350 merino base layer for your head. If you wear this under your heavy duty wind proof head gear then you will be super warm. But wearing this alone is just like wearing the Long John alone, you need other layers over it. The beanie works great as a stand-alone piece in the early hunting season or during spring turkey season, but it does nothing to stop the wind or weather on cold late season days. It is a great Merino wool layering beanie for the late season, use it for that purpose and you will not be disappointed. I also did a full video review of the First Lite Tundra Balaclava, that is a serious piece of head warming gear there.

My Experience In The Field

This again is where I need to reiterate that the Furnace base layers are not magical. They work great in the field. They are the warmest thing I’ve ever put on, but to get the most out of them you need to combine them with other good layers like a good pair of hunting bibs. I also did a podcast episode on the technical qualities that make a good pair of bibs and outerwear in general.

You need to have something wind resistant, or the wind is going to make you cold. You need layers that breathe, or you will end up wet. You need to be mindful of how you are hunting, you likely do not want to wear these on warm days on long hiking hunts. That said, they did everything I wanted them to do. The Furnace performed very well. I used them on snowy days, on 8 degree duck hunts, and more. They are excellent. And they are a great choice to pair with the First Lite Refuge Parka to stay dry and warm on the coldest of the cold days. For an even heavier duty merino wool option, check out my review of the First Lite Rugged Wool Zip Hoody.

My Lab Tasting

It is easy to subjectively say these performed great in the field, but I wanted more than that, especially for the price tag. So I did some testing. In one test I pulled together all of the best base layers I could put my hands on, took them out on a 5 degree morning and did an experiment. I filled paper travel coffee mugs with boiling water, wrapped one with each base layer, place the wrapped mugs and placed them inside of a plastic bag to act as a barrier layer and then came back in an hour to see which base layer kept the water the warmest.

I calculated the data and then repeated the test after soaking each layer in a bucket of water to see how they would perform when wet.  In both the wet and the dry test, the First Lite Furnace beat all of the competition.

Pros, Cons, and Care Tips

Pros

  • Super warm
  • Odor resistant
  • Wicks moister away
  • Dries fast
  • Soft and comfortable
  • Helps minimize over heating
  • Not overly bulky
  • Flame resistant

Cons

  • Expensive
  • Heavy

Care Tips

Merino wool is a natural material, and it can still contain traces of natural oils left in it which can cause a strange smell when wet. My Long John had no odor whatsoever, it was perfect. My Henley however had a very strange smell when it got wet then it went away when it dried. This faded with washing and use, after 5 or 6 washes I stopped noticing it.  You can machine wash them but do not put them in the drier, you risk shrinking them. I just hang them up somewhere warm with good ventilation and they dry very fast. You should definitely wash your Merino wool gear, it gets dirty and gross after wearing just like anything else, it just takes a little longer to stink.

Conclusion

I am a big fan of Furnace layers, and I heartily recommend them to anyone in the market for high end layers to hunt in extreme cold. You would be hard pressed to find better gear. Check out the reviews for even more input on the First Lite Furnace Henley and the First Lite Furnace Long John.

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast, and check us out on YouTube. 

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.

EP214 How Much Does Shot Placement Matter For Deer Hunting?

Shot placement is part of a deer hunter’s choice and preference to a large degree, but there are shots that are definitely more effective than others, and more ethical. On this episode I talk about not just where you can shoot a deer, but where you should in order to minimize suffering and have a quick, clean, easily recoverable kill.

Here are 6 of the different shot placement philosophies:

  1. Meat Hunter: Attempts to save as much meat as possible by shooting the deer in the head or neck.
  2. Opportunist: Will shoot at any vital area presented to take the deer home at any cost.
  3. Sketchy Hunter: Will shoot at any brown fur they see, and likely to take few deer home. This is also largely unsafe on often illegal.
  4. Heart Shooter: Aims for the heart to the kill the deer as quickly and painlessly as possible while preservice the head and neck.
  5. Traditionalist: Attempts to shoot through the largest vital area, both lungs, to produce the most consistent kills.
  6. Disabler: Tries to shoot through both shoulders so the deer is unable to run to escape.

Listen to the episode to hear the pros and cons for each shot style and which are the most effective and most ethical.

EP213 How To Get All Your Duck Hunting Gear To Your Spot

Duck hunting is a gear intensive sport and getting that gear to the field is a hurdle that every hunter needs to navigate. On this episode I talk about 5 different levels of gear and the main options for getting your equipment into the field for each. I also highlight different ways of hunting and moving gear which should help inform new and experienced hunters alike. 

  1. Extra Heavy Gear Hunting – Gear at this level either needs left in the field or brought in by vehicle, it is beyond what the hunters can bring into the woods under their own power. When you see hundreds of duck decoys, or large goose spreads, this is the only option.
  2. Heavy Gear Hunting – This is the upper range of what individuals can somehow lug to their hunting spot. Often they are using multiple jet sleds, farm carts, or boats to get it in.
  3. Medium Gear Hunting – What the average hunter is able to bring into the wood solo, or what a group can bring in without great effort. The is what most hunters are doing. This often involves what can practically be taken in on a single sled or cart. 
  4. Light Gear Hunting – What the average hunter can carry on their back without any mechanical aid. This usually consists 6-12 decoys and only the bare essentials. You would most often hunt this way if you have to cover a lot of ground, 
  5. Little to No Gear Hunting – This is for hunting on foot, moving throughout the day, usually with 0-2 decoys. This will enable you to go deep into the woods and access locations you could not get to laden down with gear. 

Most Common Tools Used

  • Jet Sled – These are heavy duty, super durable sleds designed for farm work and other rigorous activities. They can be used to drag or float hundreds of pounds of gear across just about anything at any time of year. 
  • Farm Cart – These wide wheelbase carts can make it possible to transport excessive weight with ease, as long as it is across relatively even surfaces. 
  • Open Top Kayak – Almost nothing is going to be easier than paddling into a location and floating your heavy gear in, provided of course you have the water, locations, vehicles, and equipment needed to make this option work. 

Listen to the episode to hear the options for bringing the gear for each level into the woods.

EP212 How To Navigate The Duck Hunting Marketing

If ever there was a deep and confusing quagmire in the world of hunting, it is waterfowl hunting marketing. You have conflicting, inaccurate, deceptive, and at times even illogical claims all trying to get your attention or get you to pay more. On this episode I help you cut through the clutter of all the marketing hype so you can make informed decisions about what you really should by and what is worth paying for.

Links mentioned in the show:

In this podcast episode I cover several of the big areas of waterfowl hunting marketing such as:

Waterfowl hunting ammunition – This may be the most deceptive and confusing marketing in all of the hunting world. But with a few pointers you can learn to identify what elements of the ammo have value and what is hype.

Waterfowl hunting shotguns – It seems like duck hunting shotguns are very specialized and expensive. But what really makes a gun a waterfowl gun? Surprisingly little. Learn to discern what matters and what doesn’t.

Hunting waders – I think waders are the single most disappointing part of the waterfowl industry. They are almost all bad. And by bad I mean they fail, come apart, are easily shredded to pieces, the seams fail, the boots are terrible, the insulation is cheaply only placed around part of the foot and they never seem to last more than a season or two. What is worse, they come packed with bells and whistles that raise the price but amount to nothing once the waders leak. But you can find good waders out there if you know what to look for and what to ignore.

Hunting clothing – The cost of hunting clothing can be through the roof. And while at times there seems no way to justify the price, the marketing is relatively truthful. There are reasons garments cost what they do. Some education can help you identify what matters to you and what is worth paying for your hunting style.

Layout and A-Frame blinds – The marketers want you to think that dropping a few hundred dollars on a new blind setup will make all the difference in the world. The truth is, sometimes they can help in some situations. But rarely is this your weakest link. Most hunters would be further ahead by spending this money on practice by shooting sporting clays.

Duck and goose calls – The sky is the limit on the cost and complexity of waterfowl calls, and every call promises to make the difference and bring ducks right to your feet. You do need calls. More than one is helpful. But knowing when to part with your money is critical. Most of the time a new call is not going to change much of anything, unless you know exactly what it will add to you, and only experience can judge that effectively. As mentioned in the show, here is the link Ryloh Game Calls.

Listen to the episode to find out how to navigate the duck hunting marketing!

EP211 The #1 Thing I learned About Duck Hunting Last Season

Learning is the most valuable thing we take away from each hunting season. And learning from someone else’s mistakes can be a great way to keep from making your own. On this episode I talk about the number 1 thing I learned during duck season last year.

Most people want to believe that every shot they take instantly kills the bird they are shooting at. Ammo companies make it their business to get people to believe that. But the truth is that this just does not always happen.

Never assume a bird is dead until you have it in hand and can confirm its condition. Always make it a point to immediately collect birds that you down. Do not wait, do not delay, do not take your eyes off of the bird. Get it and get it now. Make sure it’s dead and not suffering, and make sure the bird is not lost.

Listen to the episode for all the insights, stories, and more.

EP210 Top 10 Deer Hunting Bad Habits

If you want to be a better deer hunter, fixing a few bad habits may be the fastest way to improve your level of success in the woods. On this episode I talk about 10 bad habits deer hunters develop and how to fix them.

Deer hunters, like anyone, can easily fall into a pattern that becomes a rut. If you keep doing the same things and do not get the results you want, there is an obvious issue. But because you only do it a few times a year, there may not be enough awareness or drive to really evaluate things and make a change.

Realizing you have a bad habit is sometimes all you need to do to fix it the next time around. You may become a better hunter just by listening to this episode. You may also learn some things that require proactive effort to put into practice. In either event, you should be equipped to do even better!

Listen to the episode to hear about the 10 bad habits! 

EP209 CHECKLIST To Get Your Spots Ready For Deer Season

Getting your spots ready for the next deer hunting season should be fun and enjoyable instead of rushed and stressful. On this podcast episode I talk about strategies and timing to help you get everything checked off your list and ready for the next deer season.

Whether you hunt public land or private land, there are things you can and should be doing far in advance of the hunting season to give you the highest chances of success. Get your check list ready.

  1. Pick a spot – This is maybe the hardest to do and requires scouting, planning, strategy, factoring in future winds and much more. Listen to previous episodes to learn more.
  2. Food maintenance – Whether you are planting food, maintaining food, or finding food sources, the work needs done months in advance of the hunting season.
  3. Select your tree or spot – Once you have determined the right areas and how deer will relate to food, you need to pick the right tree or blind location that you will hunt from. DO NOT expect to just walk into the woods in the dark and find a good tree.
  4. Setup your stand or blind – Think safety first, second, and third. Use extra rachet straps, double the safety measures, and get it done well in advance.
  5. Mock scrape – Every good hunting spot should be paired with mock scrape to give you the best possible chance at focusing deer movement.
  6. Trail camera – Every stand and mock scrape should have a trail camera if financially feasible. This is how you learn where, when, and how to hunt each spot and if it is a dud without wasting your whole season sitting there.
  7. Removing or relocating debris – Cleaning up your area can be a good idea, but do not just get rid of every downed tree and branch, use them to your advantage!
  8. Creating cover – Deer need cover, and you may want to add some when you are able. Consider all available options such as downing trees to open up canopy, hinge cuts, switch grass, and more.
  9. Trail maintenance for deer – You want to keep certain trails clear to encourage and focus movement. Likewise, you may want to add obstacles in key places to limit movement options in order to try and get them closer or at better angles. 
  10. Access maintenance for people – Getting to your hunting spot quietly and while leaving minimal scent is crucial. Decide long in advance the best way to access your hunting spot and make sure you find or create a clear approach. 

Listen to the episode to for the details! 

EP208 All About Planting Clover For Deer & Turkey Hunting

Clover is one of the best plantings for a new hunter when it comes to deer and turkey hunting. It is easy, fast, inexpensive, does not require big equipment, and grows back every year. On this episode I talk about the benefits and easiest ways new hunters can plant clover as a food plot.

Take Aways

  • Whitetail Institute Imperial Clover is the gold standard that all clover is measured against. You can get started with a microplot for about $20.
  • There are way cheaper clover options though. If you go to your local AG store you can often get white clover by the pound for half the price.
  • I have used both and gotten good results with both. But I would still lean towards the Whitetail Institute Imperial Clover if cost and scale were not major factors.
  • The clover is a great food source for deer year-round, I have watched them visit it daily in the middle of January and February and paw through several inches of snow to nibble on whatever is left.
  • Turkeys also find clover patches very appealing, especially in the early spring. They eat the clover as well as the bugs that live on and around it.
  • To prepare the ground there are two easy routes, you can whack the vegetation down to the dirt with a weed eater or do a few sprayings of Round Up with a cheap hand sprayer.
  • Normally you will want to put down some pelletized lime when you plant to help the PH. $20 worth is plenty for most micro plots.
  • You can add fertilizer in the spring or fall if you want. Ideally you want something like a 0-20-20. Clover doesn’t need nitrogen, it creates its own and it only feeds the weeds when you use it. My local AG store has 10-20-20, and I use that. 
  • To plant clover you need very minimal tools if you can see bare dirt, just a cheap hand spreader.
  • Upkeep is minimal, just re-seed in late winter/early spring wherever you see bare spots and you should be good to go.
  • You can mow or weed whack the clover in the summer if you are getting competition with weeds, typically the clover will grow back faster than the weeds and take back over.
  • There are some special herbicides that will kill grasses and weeds without hurting the clover if your clover gets overrun, but most people won’t need them.
  • Listen to the episodes for all the details.

EP207 How To Create A Deer Sanctuary On Your Land For Free

If you want to have more deer and more mature bucks on your property, then creating a deer sanctuary is key. And while the sky is the limit on what this can cost, if you understand the principles, you can get much of the benefit for free. On this episode I talk about what a deer sanctuary is and the strategy that goes into developing one.

Take Aways

  • A deer sanctuary is as a much a strategy as it is a physical place. You, the hunter, make an area a sanctuary by virtue of what you do or do not do. Sure, modifying the habitat can help, but it cannot serve as a substitute for how you manage and hunt the land.
  • It is amazing how cheaply you can create a sanctuary when you understand the concept and what makes an area ideal habitat.
  • Remember that mature bucks need to almost be treated like a different animal from does and young bucks. They are much more wary, strategic, and mindful. This is why they are prized to hunt, because they are the hardest member of the heard to take.
  • Even if you spend a fortune on habitat improvements, you undo it all if you are not mindful of your access points, walking areas, and stand locations. Hunting smart will always yield more results than spending money.
  • Listen to the episode to learn about what a deer sanctuary is and how to build one.

EP206 Hunting Elk Solo vs. A Guide Or Outfitter

Should you hunt elk solo or pay for a guide or an outfitter? That is an easy question to ask but the answer depends greatly on the many variables that are unique to your situation and goals. On this episode I provide some insight which can help you make the best decision for you.

Take Aways

  • Guides are people you pay who know the land and the game and are able to help put you in an advantageous hunting situation.
  • Outfitters are companies that make your hunting accommodations, often including ground transportation, lodging, meals, guides, butchering, and transporting your meat back home.
  • Guides usually have a day rate.
  • Outfitters usually have a trip rate that varies based on the number of days.
  • A guided elk hunt is not someone taking you to an elk ranch where you pick your elk, shoot it, and have your antlers sent back home. That isn’t even hunting.
  • A guide is someone who shares their experience, knowledge of the land, and insight into the game to help you locate and get close to elk. They don’t hunt for you; they mentor you through the hunt.
  • The best time to use a guide or an outfitter is when you are investing a lot of time and money into travel and want to position yourself for the most enjoyable experience and best chance of success.
  • The best time to go solo is when your investment or risk is limited. If you can drive to the area to hunt, and make regular weekend excursions, you can easily and cheaply work at it until you learn.
  • Since so many people travel great distances and invest so much to hunt elk, guides become a very important part of the process. 
  • Always do your homework, research a guide or outfitter, look for reviews, talk to past customers if possible, make sure they are legit and that people enjoyed their experience.
  • Listen to the episode for all of the info.

Subscribe Today!