EP57 Buck Habits vs Doe Habits

Show Notes:

Some of the worst misinformation out there is that does and bucks are the same, live the same, and are in the same places.  On today’s episode I talk about how does live, how bucks live, and how you need to hunt them very differently.

Take Aways:

  • Does are social, patient, and forgiving creatures. They can coexist with lots of deer, animals, people, and hunting pressure.
  • Mature bucks are reclusive, wary, and keep a long list of transgressions. They do not like to be around many deer and have very little tolerance for people or anything man made.
  • Mature bucks and does don’t spend a lot of time together outside of the rut, and too many does will even push mature bucks away.
  • Even if they eat in the same fields, does and bucks will bed in different places, browse in different places, and even walk different trails.
  • If mature bucks are in your area, hunt them during early archery before they leave their regular areas in search of mating.
  • If you have no bucks on your trail cams at all, that may be perfect once gun season comes around because they may move into your area.
  • Even when bucks are on the run in search of does, they still want more cover and more privacy, so you may need to hunt them different even during the rut.

EP56 Defining Deer Movement Patterns

Show Notes:

Anyone can be get lucky, but to have consistent success in the whitetail woods you need strategy, experience, reconnaissance, and some understanding of how deer live. One today’s episode I focus on how you can define deer movement in order to multiply your chances for success, while spending little to no money.

Take Aways:

  • Deer are creatures of habit, and to be consistently successful you need to both learn their habits and how to influence those habits.
  • The main ways to impact deer movement are by cutting trails, building mock scraps, digging water holes, planting food plots, and adding cover.
    • Cutting trails can help by creating a path of least resistance in areas that are thick and hard to move through.
    • Mock scrapes can give deer a focal point to come to and stop at along a trail or in a movement area.
    • Water holes help in the same way a mock scrap when used on dry parcels or on high ground.
    • Food plots, especially small ones like 1/2 an acre to 1/8 of an acre, can give deer a place to browse on their way to more substantial food supplies. I recommend a perennial crop, something cheap and low maintenance, like clover.
    • Adding cover can create bedding areas and give deer more peace of mind for traveling through or eating in an area. One of the worst habitats is open woods in all directions, deer need places to hide.
  • Even if you are unable to add any of these habitat improvements, the more you know about them, the better you can read naturally occurring ones and use them to your advantage.

EP55 Creating Mock Scrapes For Deer Hunting

Show Notes:

A mock scrape is a powerful tool for defining deer movement that any hunter of any experience level can use to boost their chances of success. In today’s episode I talk about how you can use mock scrapes to improve your scouting and hunting setup.

Take Aways:

  • Mock scrapes should be placed in areas that deer already move through, or have a reason to move through.
  • Less is more when it comes to scrapes, the fewer you have the more value each has because you do not want to split the attention each gets.
  • The best time to setup a scrape is a few months before the season starts or in the post season.
  • Deer often begin to start using a new mock scrape within a few days or weeks.
  • A scrape can last for years with little to no maintenance. 
  • Scrapes are great places to put a trail camera.
  • All you need is a three step ladder, some black rope, a few zip ties, and a rake.

EP54 Deer Season Trail Camera Strategy 101

Show Notes:

When it comes to deer hunting, an ounce of preparation is worth a pound of hard work. In this episode I talk about simple and inexpensive trail camera strategies that can completely transform the way you hunt by saving you time and improving your odds of success.

Take Aways:

  • Trail cameras help you do four things.
    1. Know if deer are the area you are considering hunting. You can’t hunt what isn’t there.
    2. How many deer are in the area. This lets you know your odds of success.
    3. What kind of deer are in the area. Whether it’s bucks or does, big or small, you need to know. 
    4. WHEN deer are in the area, so you only hunt when deer are likely to be around.
  • Simple and inexpensive cameras are an ok place to start if you can find the perfect place to put and aim them.
  • Your camera MUST be able to date and time stamp each photo and you MUST set this up to get the full benefit.
  • Put your trail camera above a deer‘s eye level to reduce the odds they will see it.
  • Avoid a deer’s most likely line of sight.
  • Put cameras back from a trail so you don’t need to walk the trail to check them.
  • Here is mid range camera that I’ve had good success with. It can give you a sense of the features to look for. I got mine on sale, the sticker price is a little high.
  • Setup a camera in August and check it every 2-3 weeks. Stop checking at least 2 weeks before you plan to hunt.

EP53 Best Guns For Woodchuck Hunting

Show Notes:

Few game animals can be hunted with such a large variety of firearms as woodchucks, aka groundhogs. On this episode I talk about the best guns to use for the job.

Take Aways:

  • Hands down, the best gun for hunting woodchucks is the one you already have. Start with that, learn to hunt them with the gear you have and then you can expand into other areas once you have some experience and know what you like.
  • If you are going to purchase a gun, or have a variety to choose from, I recommend a bolt action .233 Remington, followed in second place by a bolt action .243 Winchester.
    • The .223 has plenty of power, significant range, is safe in close range, low in cost, very common, and has many ammo choices. 
    • The .223 is also good for hunting hogs, coyotes, foxes, and many medium to small game animals with even the potential to be used on deer at close range.
    • The .243 has more power than you need, but many lower power rounds exist that are good for groundhogs and the rifle is excellent for deer, coyotes, hogs, and possibly even black bear.
    • The .223 is best for small to medium game, and the .243 is best for medium to some larger game, it depends on what else you want to use the rifle for.
  • If you are going to buy something, both of these rifles are very common and can often be obtained used at lower cost.
  • There are certainly other options out there and but for the BEGINNER, I believe these are best for the reasons stated above and more reasons are given during the episode.

EP52 Start Hunting Woodchucks

Show Notes:

Woodchucks, also known as groundhogs and whistle pigs, may be the single easiest type of game to start hunting. On this episode I talk about how easy it is to get started no matter what equipment you already have. 

Take Aways:

  • Woodchucks in some states can be hunted 12 months a year, with no limits. Any day you can find one, you can hunt it.
  • Though they do hibernate during the 3-6 coldest months of the year depending on where you live.
  • You can use almost any type of firearm to hunt woodchucks if it’s legal in your state. Rifle, shotgun, even handgun.
  • Woodchucks are menaces, their borrows can damage yards, fields, structures, etc. So they are hunted for pest control, not food.
  • You can hunt them up close, at a distance, or at very long range, whatever suits you and your equipment.
  • The only thing you need in Pennsylvania to hunt them is an orange hat and pretty much any gun potent enough to kill them.

EP51 What Game To Eat and Not Eat

Show Notes:

All animals are edible, but not all animals are tasty or healthy. On today’s episode I help new hunters navigate what common game animals are best to eat, which ones are questionable, and which to avoid.

Take Aways:

Almost anything can be palatable if cooked right, and somethings that are very unhealthy can be tasty. So the below classifications take both health and taste into consideration, it is not just a list of the things I like and don’t like. 

  • Best To Eat: Dear, Elk, Moose, Turkey, Pheasants, Grouse, Doves, Quail, Ducks, Geese, Sheep/Rams/Goats
  • Worth Considering: Squirrel, Rabbit, Wild Boar
  • What To Avoid: Crows, Foxes, Coyotes, Raccoons, Beavers, Muskrats, Martins, Fishers, Opossum’s, Woodchucks, Bob Cats, Bears, Porcupines and essentially anything that is a predator or a scavenger.

In the end, do your own research about health, and your own taste testing so you can come to your own conclusions. These recommendations are just a guide to help new hunters get started.

EP50 Hardcore Hunting Talk Hurts The Sport

Show Notes:

The number one thing I have seen turn off new or potential hunters is them being pushed or made to feel like they need to hunt in some hardcore way to be successful or accepted. On today’s episode I shine the spotlight on this false, pride driven, and empty nonsense. And no, I’m not mincing any words! 

Take Aways:

  • You should hunt as often as you want, as long as you want, and the way you want in order to get the most enjoyment from the sport.
  • There is no wrong way to hunt unless it negatively impacts other hunters.
  • Hunting longer, harder, and more often does not make you a better person, and does not make you better than anyone else. It adds nothing to you except fun and experience. 
  • Most people who talk about how hardcore they are, are just blowing smoke, they are exaggerating, lying, or just plain trying to make themselves look good.
  • Those who really do hunt hardcore and still talk a big talk are just full of pride, and trying to make themselves sound impressive.
  • Much hardcore hunting is misguided, not strategic, and rather clumsily planned. You can often get better results by hunting smarter and easier.
  • Maybe 1 in 100 new hunters are interested in hardcore hunting, which means you will prevent 99% of new hunters from ever starting by running your mouth.
  • Do what you enjoy because you enjoy it. If you want to hunt harder then do it because you want to. Don’t let anyone else’s expectations, talk, or pride push you around.
  • New hunters need something that appeals to them, something to make them want to hunt. Don’t try to lift them up to your level, find out where they are and help them there.

 

EP49 Three Great Crow Hunting Strategies

Show Notes:

Crow hunting can be challenging but it’s not rocket science. With these three simple strategies should you be able to effectively hunt whatever type of land you have available.

Take Aways:

  • The Basecamp Method. This involves focusing your entire hunt on one location and preparing that location for optimum success. You will need a blind, lots of decoys, a good field of view, a loud call, and of course surrounding areas that hold crows.
  • Running And Gunning. Pack light, bring water, and plan on covering a lot of ground. Every half mile or so, find some cover and start calling. When the action dies down, move on to the next area.  This is also a great way to scout new locations.
  • Strategic Ops. Plan on visiting a handful of locations you have already scouted and verified, maybe 2-4 spots for a morning. Take a few decoys and pick good places to sit with some cover. Plan on spending an hour or so hunting each spot, unless the crows keep coming in. When things quiet down then pack up and make your way to the next location.

 

EP48 Basic Crow Hunting Gear

Show Notes:

In most situations, crow hunting is a game of hiking and stealth. You need gear that will enable you to easily cover ground and then remain undetected once you start calling.  On this episode, I talk about the basic gear you want for crow hunting.

Take Aways:

  • Footwear – I recommend some medium hiking style boosts that you can cover different types of terrain easily with. Heavy insulated boots aren’t needed because most of the time you won’t be sitting in one spot for very long.
  • Socks – This depends a lot on the season, but generally you need lighter socks than for hunting from a still position because you will be moving regularly.
  • Pants – A camo outer layer is needed, black or brown are the next best options
  • Jacket – Camo is best, and the weight depends on the season. A heavy coat is needed for winter, and a long sleeve t-shirt might be best for summer. 
  • Gloves – Light camo gloves for warm weather and heavier for cold weather.  Usually I end up using the light gloves in the cold too because depending on how much you walk, you may stay plenty warm.
  • Face – Some kind of face covering is important, you want to hid as much skin as possible.  
  • Head – Camo hats are easy to come buy, have one of every type of weather.
  • Backpack – A pack is important to hold your calls, water, umbrella, snacks, and anything else you might need.
  • Seat – Something light that can hang from your pack or belt is ideal to help you stay dry no matter where you site and make hunting a little more comfortable. 

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